Cinque Terre – Living on the edge

April 29,2012

An easy going Sunday in Levanto, Italy. We made it out for breakfast at noon and enjoyed some local cuisine. I had seafood risotto and Reid had spaghetti; the quality of the Italian food kept our taste buds dancing throughout the entire meal. Then it was time for laundry. No matter how glamorous life can seem, mundane tasks still require attention, so we holed up in a café next to the laundromat for two hours. While we waited for our laundry to dry, we entertained ourselves by watching families play and laugh as they enjoyed their weekend freedom in a nearby park; when we weren’t people watching, we read or exchanged casual conversation. That was easily the most content I have ever felt while doing a chore that should always remind me of how blessed I am to have clothes to wash, and the time and energy to carry out the task. There is never the prospect of boredom when you can enjoy the simple parts of life.

I returned to my room to hang the clothes that resisted the dryer’s warmth and then took off on a solo skate mission to explore the new town. The bike path became my playground as I cruised through tunnels burrowed through mountains that separate seaside villages. I stopped and enjoyed a meditation break overlooking the ocean. How does this body of water create an instant sense of peace that allows me to observe my thoughts (or lack thereof) pass by without any desire to feed them?

We had supper at the same restaurant, and a lively crowd entertained us as we enjoyed the succulent flavours of the chef’s latest creations. We were astonished to see other customers arrive with their dogs to keep them company—those cultural nuances…something forbidden by social rules and health and safety in Canada reminded me that nothing is normal unless you think it is.

Following our gelato dessert, Reid and I went back to our room and watched Louie, (created and directed by Lewis C.K.) laughing our hearts out at his pessimistic, raunchy and inappropriate humor that highlights the many flaws, and some unfortunate truths, of reality we so often encounter.

 

April 30, 2012:

Today was the best day in Italy we’ve had so far. After enjoying breakfast at our traditionally decorated Venetian hotel, we headed off to the tourist information booth to acquire a map that would serve as our hiking guide. The Cinque Terre National Park has gained worldwide recognition for its unique geography, not to mention the crazy locals who decided to situate their lives on the side of a cliff overhanging the ocean. The weather was warm but overcast as we began our hike, however our trek became precarious the moment the clouds broke and the earth received its bath. The showers grew heavier, but they didn’t dissuade young and old from making their way between the most northern town of Monterosso to Vernazza. The jagged paths and absence of handrails required unwavering attention to avoid a tumble that could potentially be our last, but the hike offered a view of villages that made each step a pleasure to take.

We paused along the way to admire the terraced land that sustains the life of the local people. Who was the first person to decide that they would set up his or her home on these treacherous cliff sides? You have to wonder what locals who lived here hundreds of years ago would think if they were watching thousands of tourists make the risky trek everyday for fun. It’s interesting to watch people return more and more to ancient traditions to achieve contentment. By the time we entered Vernazza thoroughly drenched, every restaurant was full of people seeking refuge from the rain. It was a relief when we were finally welcomed in after being rejected from several places with a simple “NO.” Definitely not the North American service we are accustomed to.

The trails from Vernazza to Corniglia and Corniglia to Manarola were closed for repair so we took the train that rolled at high speeds between each town. Each village was a unique structure of homes, resembling a tie-dyed quilt, nestled in the hills. The towns were bustling with tourists, locals and their dogs. I am so happy we’re visiting during off-season and thus avoiding the chaos that will inevitably ensue over the summer months.

We finished the day with a quick stop at the local gym. It was great to get a quick workout while watching the local meatheads, who were extremely friendly and charged only five euros. It is such a great feeling to maintain the vehicles of our soul together.

Supper was a ‘three-peat.’ The food is always bursting with flavour and there is no mistaking the homemade sauces for some byproduct of the industrialized food system. Dessert was mint tea at the Bar Brigida Café. The family-oriented society in Europe is a welcoming change to the not uncommon drinking scene in North America, where a blackout and hangover seem to be the end game for plenty of people.

What a blessing to enjoy this time with my dad and brother as we continue along our spiritual journey (with its wonderful detour through Italy).

Tyler Maltman