First week in India

November 8, 2011

The trip from Australia to India was one of the longest of my life. After leaving Cairns, I had to transit through Brisbane to Singapore, then to Dubai, before arriving in Trivandrum, Kerala. It was thirty-six hours before I was on Indian soil. It was such a weird feeling to walk into the airport as a visible minority. I was the only white person amongst thousands of Indians.

Street view in Kerala

The way all the children stared at me was hilarious. I also immediately realized that there is no concept of personal space here, especially in comparison to western customs. But everyone was so friendly and always returned my smiles, and all of the people I talked to were interested to know my name and immediately shook my hand.

The taxi ride to the hotel was a one-hour death-defying ride! I watched as buses overtook semi-trucks, forcing the cab driver to the side of the road several times throughout the trip. At one point the cab abruptly stopped, and suddenly I found myself drinking breakfast tea and eating rice paddies at a local restaurant while the driver enjoyed a morning cigarette. As I sipped the hot tea and watched the crazy traffic roar by, I completely forgot that I was running on only three hours of broken sleep.

Varkala Cliff Side Beach. One of the rare moments it was empty.

After checking into the hotel, I walked down to the beach, where I was greeted by a hoard of local children who took turns introducing themselves and asking for my name. I have never seen so many people so happy to greet a foreigner on any previous trip. As I continued my jaunt down the beach, I was continually greeted by smiling faces interested to find out where I’d come from. The water in the Arabian Sea was extremely refreshing to cool off from the exhausting heat. All of the restaurant and shop owners stood outside, trying to usher in tourists and locals to see “unique” items that they will offer for a “good price.”

Locals enjoying the surf

Australia was an amazing country, but after just one day in India I knew that this culturally unique country would continue to intrigue and impress me more than anywhere else I have been.

November 14, 2011

The five days that I spent in Varkala were a perfect time to rest and enjoy some Indian culture before entering the Ashram. The state of Kerala was the first place to democratically elect a communist party in 1957, with the highest voter turnout in India; it has remained in rule for most of the time since.

Kerala is also recognized as having the highest Human Development Index (created by the United Nations) in India based on several factors, including an advanced public healthcare system and a literacy rate of 99 %.

Communist Party Parade

Varkala is a small village (population about 45,000) located near the Arabian Sea. It’s famous for beautiful beaches that run along a stunning cliffside. The sunsets each night were blazing red, and the many restaurants along the cliffs provided the perfect place to enjoy fresh seafood while watching the sun disappear over the seemingly endless ocean.

Cliff view of the sunset

This place could almost be described as the ‘Tofino of India,’ with a strong tourist presence and countless ways to entertain one’s self. As I walked along the beach in the morning, I watched locals practice yoga while their children played in the ocean.

It was amazing to see how happy all of these kids were, as their relaxed parents sat and observed them for hours on end. There is even a bit of a surfer culture, thanks to waves that are more than ample to catch a good ride on.

The Arabian Ocean is a popular place to cool down from the average year round temperature of 26C

The evening sky

I was looking for a yoga studio where I could warm up before starting my training, and one of the locals pointed me in the direction of Hari, a German man who used to teach at the Ashram I was going to attend. I was initially shocked when I arrived at his studio. The floor was hardened mud, the roof was constructed out of palm trees, and a variety of insects definitely contributed to the challenge of finding some calmness and peace. It was hilarious to hear other participants in the class slapping themselves in an attempt to get rid of whatever creature was crawling on them.

Following my visit to Hari, I wandered around the cliffside for a bit before walking into a travel agency, which informed me of the many attractions of Varkala. I decided to go on the “Varkala Day Tour,” which started at 8:30 a.m. I had no idea how many people to expect for the tour, but when I showed up the next morning I found just one other person, a friend of the travel agent’s who would be my tour-guide for the day.

We started off by enjoying breakfast at a local restaurant, where I was introduced to the custom of eating with one’s hands. I had to make sure to eat with my right hand, though, as the left hand is considered “unsanitary” in India. It was hilarious to mash my food with my hand in a public restaurant and feel totally normal.

Local restaurant where I learned to eat with my right hand

On the tour we visited a few temples that were very ornate; my guide informed me that they were “ok for all religions to visit…” I have always found it weird to visit a place where a group of people are supposed to worship god, yet they don’t allow other people to enter simply because they call him by a different name.

The first place of worship we visited was the Sivagiri Mutt ashram, where the guru Sree Narayana was buried in 1928. His message to his disciples was “One Caste, One Religion, One God.” This place continues to be a popular pilgrimage for Indian people.

Sivagiri Mutt ashram

We continued our tour to the “Golden Island,” which is a very small but beautiful place located in the backwaters of Varkala. The driving—as always—was the most intense part of the trip, as we narrowly avoided numerous head-on collisions. I have to admit that people are much better at sharing a road in India, but the pandemonium still seems ludicrous to a foreigner bombarded by the constant sound of car horns. People honk just to let others know they are there, almost like saying hello to a passerby on the street; the outcome is a symphony that can only be described as chaotic.

Backwaters boat ride to the Golden Island

Tuk-Tuk a very popular way to weave through the traffic

After lunch, the tour guide had to return home to make a phone call. He asked me if it was okay if I waited inside and I immediately agreed, as he had a very friendly demeanor and I was really curious to see the inside of his home. When I arrived at his house I was greeted in the yard by one of his three pet roosters. His wife welcomed me inside and prepared coffee for me. The hospitality that Indian people display to travelers in this country is amazing. Their house was really nice and well kept; the guide told me he bought it twenty years ago and it is now worth ten times its original price. After our short stop at his home, we drove thirty minutes north of Varkala for an elephant ride.

Ganesha

Elephants are very sacred animals in India because they represent the Hindu god Ganesha. Ganesha is known as the remover of obstacles (both internal and external), which is very symbolic of the elephant: humans have relied heavily on elephants to create paths through the jungle for thousands of years. As soon as I arrived, I was immediately in awe of these magnificent animals. A caregiver was bathing one elephant while others chowed down on some grass. I learned that they can eat over 300 pounds a day! The elephant I rode on was completely free; the trainer just walked calmly alongside him as we toured the local neighborhood. Being over ten feet in the air provided a great perch to check out the interesting yards and beautiful gardens belonging to the locals.

The most powerful animal I have ever met

The day ended with a return drive through rush-hour traffic, which is always entertaining. It’s crazy to watch the laidback attitude of riders as they weave through traffic on motorcycles, often doubling or even tripling up, all without helmets. It definitely makes you rethink what “normal” means.

The local shower as seen on the "Varkala Day Tour"

In the days leading up to my departure for yoga training, I was given a few forewarnings about the Ashram. A local who had been there several times told me it was a great place, but two years ago the teachers changed and he now refuses to go back there due to its negative environment. A Chilean couple I had breakfast with asked me about my travel plans, and when they found out I was going to the Ashram, the man grew delighted, telling me he loved the time he spent there. His wife, however, was very sour when she spoke about the Ashram, telling me about its horrible food and unfriendly people. After hearing this, I tried my best to keep an open mind in order to avoid building up false expectations for my visit.