Europe a new world: The Austrian Alps

The Austrian Alps: February 13-19, 2012

Sunset over the Alps in Villach

February 13, 2012:

My first day in Austria was so relaxed and enjoyable, filled with culture and authentic people. Following my departure from Saskatoon, I made connections through Toronto and Vienna, before finally landing in Klangenfurt. My friend Thomas’s girlfriend, Emily, greeted me at the gate. Thomas, whom I first met at the Ashram, is a ski instructor in the Alps. Before we parted ways, he graciously offered me his place as accommodation for my Austrian trip, an offer I was more than happy to accept!

Standing on the top of Gerlitzen Mountain with Thomas before our morning shred.

The first thing I learned in Austria is that you need a pass to drive on the Autobahn, otherwise the police ticket you. Since Emily doesn’t usually drive on the Autobahn and therefore never needs a pass, she and I had to navigate down back roads to get to Thomas’s hometown, Furnitz. This adventure resulted in various detours, but on the bright side, the beautiful passing architecture instilled in me an appreciation for Austrian culture. At one point, we stopped inside a small café that, thanks to the amount of cigarette smoke floating inside, was sorely lacking in oxygen. I suspect I inhaled the equivalent of three smokes in the duration of my visit. Sitting in that musty room, I thought about the contrasting attitudes between Austria and my own country. It’s funny to think of how far Canada has come: from its introduction of no-smoking rules to some of its provinces now forbidding the practice in vehicles with kids. Needless to say, Austria’s lax attitude toward smoking was a bit of a culture shock for me.

Emily walking down the road to the parents house.

After our café visit, we went to meet Thomas’s parents (Thomas was still teaching in the mountains upon my arrival). They were extremely welcoming, immediately making me feel at home by preparing a great lunch and coffee. Unfortunately, smoke was also a presence in their house, but by that point I appreciated how different the Austrian attitude toward smoking really is. Thomas’s parents live in a small town close to his own home; in fact, three generations of his family live on the same street of a small winding hill. Coming from a place where most people try to escape a concerned parental gaze as soon as they reach their teens, observing this type of close-knit family was unique for me. From their kitchen window I could even see the resort mountain Thomas works on (as well as a mountain that resembled a volcano).

The view from the backyard of the parent’s house.

Thomas’s apartment is small, rustic, and heated by a wood-burning stove; I had a lot of fun chopping up wood for supper. I was reminded to throw a few coals on the fire before going to bed to avoid waking up in a freezing room.

February 14, 2012:

The room was cold when I woke up at six a.m., but as soon as I remembered why my alarm was set so early, I jumped out of bed and raced to the mountain for first chair. Riding down the mountain’s run while looking at the Alps stretching over the distance was mesmerizing. After our first run, Thomas pointed out the mountains that line the border between Slovenia and Italy. Observing the proximity of such diverse countries made me wonder if I was looking at the underlying cause of Europe’s general open-mindedness.

For supper we drove to Slovenia, where we enjoyed dining at a pizzeria located on the base of a world-class downhill slalom ski course. People-watching is especially fun on one of the “most important” date nights of the year.

Valentines supper at a local gem.

February 16, 2012:

Gerlitzen Mountain was packed during my visit, as it was a school break for most of Europe. The Austrian Alps offer the world’s most desirable skiing conditions so, not surprisingly, the accents I heard in the chalet were diverse and varied. Skiing definitely dominated over snowboarding at this particular place.

One cultural difference that became increasingly apparent during my visit is Europe’s general disinterest in customer service; it’s definitely not regarded as passionately as it is in North America. After I had coffee in the chalet, I took one or two bites of a banana before a waitress gruffly informed me that the chalet was “not a place for a picnic.” She made it obvious that I apparently needed them more than they needed me. Judging by her behaviour, it would be easy to assume that a small smile or a quick hello between strangers is not the commonality in Europe that it is in Canada. But luckily this assumption is definitely a generalization, as I met a lot of very friendly and polite people in Austria who were excited to learn I was from Canada. Thomas informed me that Austrians love Canadians and view Canada as a “Big Austria” with even more amazing mountains. The endless compliments I received about Canada while abroad reminded me how epic the Canadian landscape, people and its culture, really is.

The river running through the town of Villach

Europe is known for its open attitude toward sexuality. Well, needless to say, it was interesting to encounter these cultural nuances for myself. This morning I took a day off riding the mountains and went to the Therme spa to soak in its large mineral pool. When I walked into the changing room I immediately assumed I must have entered the wrong door, but moments later realized it was for both genders. The general attitude seemed to suggest that we all have human bodies, so why hide them? Still, this experience was definitely weird, especially in comparison to India, where the locals dipped into the ocean fully clothed. It was essential for me to remember that an open mind is key to adjusting to a new “normal."

A couple of locals enjoying Fasching!

I spent the afternoon walking around downtown, admiring the cobblestone streets and amazing churches lining the city. No other institution has been as successful as the church in constructing such extravagant buildings around the world. The locals were decorating the streets and building stages in preparation for Fasching, their huge yearly carnival. On my train ride home I enjoyed a discussion with a nice old man, even though he only spoke a handful of English words. But between using sign language and speaking slowly, we were able to exchange a few ideas. It’s amazing how much of our communication is actually non-verbal.

The downtown streets were packed with every different kind of costume you could imagine.

February 19, 2012:

Tonight was my first Fasching experience. Fasching is an annual festival that attracts over 100,000 people a year to party in the streets of Villach (population 35,000). Fasching is a Roman Catholic Shrovetide carnival that has been celebrated in German-speaking nations since around 1213. This celebration begins right before Lent and is essentially celebrated as an excuse to be ludicrous before practicing austerity. The theme is similar to Halloween: dress up in whatever you want and party hard!

Thomas, Emily, his younger brother and girlfriend guided me through the streets to all of the different areas that were each playing unique genres of music.

The afternoon started with an elaborate family parade, which I sadly missed because I was on Gerlitzen Mountain. I did, however, make it for the evening party, which was unlike anything I’ve ever seen. The old cobblestone streets were filled with people of all ages celebrating in full force. The atmosphere was very welcoming; it was awesome to see the Austrian people, usually very stoic, take a break from their emotional reserve and fill the streets with lively energy!

The legend of Chuck Norris is popular even in Austria!

This event, which is know as the European Mardi Gras, featured many individuals in summer-appropriate costumes and seemingly oblivious to the frigid minus temperatures. Everyone had a smile on his or her face and the happiness was infectious! It was motivating to see so many people gathered together to enjoy the presence of others while listening to music and dancing. Our culture is now so globalized that the carnival’s music would have sounded at home in any North American venue, except for the few distinctly German songs that kept me in the moment.

February 20, 2012:

This train took us up 1600m through the mountain to the gondola.

Yesterday Thomas had the day off work, so we made the ninety-minute drive to Molltaler Glestscher for a day of unforgettable shredding. Thomas, aside from being a trained instructor, has been visiting these mountains since he was a child, so I felt safe riding a glacier that has claimed the lives of less experienced people. A train at the base of the mountain takes you through a tunnel as it travels 1600m up to the first gondola. It was interesting to see people of all ages ready themselves for one of the most popular tourist attractions in Austria. Who would think that risking your life flying down a hill on skis or a board would become one of the world’s most popular tourist activities?

Thomas in front of the ridge that we hiked for the best run of my life!

The morning sunlight provided excellent visibility for us as we hiked across a ridge before dropping down a powder-covered slope. Meditative walking is no longer a difficult feat after maneuvering along the edge of a rock cliff; careful attention was definitely necessary! When the time came to strap-in, I could feel my heart beating extra fast due to the lack of oxygen at the 3150m peak. The ride down was the best line I have ever experienced. I am forever grateful to my humble and extraordinarily talented friend.

On a final note, as I prepare for the first leg of my journey to Helsinki, I’m holding fast to an important reminder. As the speed of life increases and memories fade into the present moment, I’m becoming increasingly aware of how important it is to reflect on what I learn along the journey.